Painting Tricks 101 (come add yours!) for Peedo! :-) BloodAngelBrotherEdward.
       RE: Painting Tricks 101 (come add yours!) for Peedo! :-) SilentKilla (2/18/2002 22:53). 
       RE: Painting Tricks 101 (come add yours!) for Peedo! :-) Andamadus (2/18/2002 22:56). 
       i've got a great one to prevent the loss of detail..... baronsmeg (2/18/2002 23:02). 
           and a great one for if you have shaky hands..... baronsmeg (2/18/2002 23:06). 
               Or stick the marker in a vise.... lordisaiah (2/18/2002 23:10). 
           paint thinner?!?!? do you not use acrylics? :-) BloodAngelBrotherEdward (2/18/2002 23:16). 
               RE: paint thinner?!?!? do you not use acrylics? :-) BaronSmeg (2/18/2002 23:40). 
       RE: Painting Tricks 101 (come add yours!) for Peedo! :-) lordisaiah (2/18/2002 23:06). 
       Excilent... must absorb... Peedo (2/18/2002 23:16). 
       Never underestimate some simple gore CityRat (2/18/2002 23:24). 
           sound disgusting! ............COOL! baronsmeg (2/18/2002 23:47). 
               RE: sound disgusting! ............COOL! CityRat (2/18/2002 23:54). 
           You should know better then to mess with the Blood Angels! BloodAngelsPlaya (2/19/2002
 17:25). 
       Eyeballs and lightbulbs egbertdfat (2/18/2002 23:35). 
       Question for ya Edward captdaveman (2/19/2002 0:25). 
           liquid glosscoat specifics :-) BloodAngelBrotherEdward (2/19/2002 1:10). 
               RE: liquid glosscoat specifics :-) (NT) captdaveman (2/19/2002 1:22). 
       here is one for you UncleCrazy (2/19/2002 0:46). 
       A Question, really. knightwatch (2/19/2002 1:57). 
           here ya go :-) BloodAngelBrotherEdward (2/19/2002 2:03). 
       RE: Painting Tricks 101 (come add yours!) for Peedo! :-) captdaveman (2/19/2002 2:06). 
       Boltgun Metal? KainEmrys (2/19/2002 3:56). 
       Vehicles in five minutes kurisawa (2/19/2002 4:38). 
       EASY ORKS! Magorian (2/19/2002 6:16). 
       A question for yall... novakane (2/19/2002 6:18). 
           Me Too jdelrio (2/19/2002 16:28). 
               white! liquidviolence (2/20/2002 10:06). 
       Rust Verms (2/19/2002 6:21). 
       Thanks.. Here's another. knightwatch (2/19/2002 14:10). 
           RE: Thanks.. Here's another. codemonkey (2/19/2002 15:15). 
               This is a good one for yellow Uzantaltufty (2/19/2002 17:25). 
                   oh those sound nice - any pics online? :-) (NT) BloodAngelBrotherEdward (2/20/2002
 9:40). 
       K.I.S.S. GraemePaul (2/20/2002 15:16). 
           RE: K.I.S.S. Jupe (2/21/2002 10:14). 
       RE: Painting Tricks 101 (come add yours!) for Peedo! :-) bravetonster (2/21/2002 22:51). 
 
 

  Painting Tricks 101 (come add yours!) for Peedo! :-) . (35 Replies). BloodAngelBrotherEdward[].
 2/18/2002 22:47 (2/21/2002 22:51) 
 heya Peedo (and everyone!) :-)

 I was going to send this to you (Peedo) as an email, but then I realized that it might help other
 people too so I decided to post it here! So hello eveyone!

 Today's topic is "painting tricks 101" :-) 

 Painting these tiny minis is challenging! Some of us have hands that shake (that would be me -
 and you too if you ate as much chocolate as I do!) :-) So here are a few tricks that help me!

 If you can paint on a nice solid table - and rest your mini on the table, and hold your brush in
 one hand while supporting that hand with your other hand it is AMAZING how steady you
 can hold your brush! Now that really was my last big secret, but another secret that will help
 you is this.... when you look at something really close up it's alright if it doesn't look perfect
 because your model will NOT be looked at up close all the time - MOST of the time it will be
 viewed from about two to three feet away (arm's length) as you move your minis around on a
 table! So even a mini that has some mistakes on it can be a really fun mini to play with
 because at a DISTANCE it looks good! 

 Just for fun try this - paint a space marine all black, then get some grey, and gently do a light
 grey drybrush over the entire space marine so that the grey hits the highpoints of the model -
 now (the last step) find yourself a glosscoat (I use an acrylic floor "wax" that gives a nice tough
 shiny coat - but that's just me :-) So anyway - hit the model with this now and look at what
 you've got - sparkley eh? The black in the recesses are suddenly the very darkest parts of the
 model - the grey (which is still only a shade lighter than the black) is now the "main" color (the
 model still conveys "black" though) and the glosscoat that you just added (once it dries) will
 now make the very highest points gleam shiny white and whammo - you have just created an
 illusion - the human eye works in layers to detect depth - you've just given your eye the shiny
 white glossoat shine as the "top" and the dark grey parts as the middle and the pure black
 which is in the cracks help create the illusion of depth! :-) It's a fun trick - but it works! Same
 thin can be done with any colors, darkest color as the base, lighter color drybrushed over
 most of the model - then a very very light highlight on only the very highest points with the
 lightest shade (almost white) of the color you're using and the effect will be much the same -
 but (in my opinion) the effect is still best when used on shiny surfaces (like power armor)
 because the gloss coat allows that very brightest shine to be a true light effect (as it should be)
 which will be accurate to wherever your light source is no matter what angle you look at your
 mini from :-)

 I think the first time I really figured this out (the whole details don;t have to be perfect thing) is
 when I was painting the lenses on the Space Marine helmets - at first I just put little green
 dashes there and it looked pretty good from a distance! :-) Oh those dashes looked plum
 goofy up close, but they totally worked from a distance so the effect was good! :-) Later on I
 got a bit more obsessed with adding details (hey a fellow has to do something in their spare
 time!) but that's a story for another day :-)

 So anyway, the moral of the story for tonight is that more little details you add (even if they are
 not perfect!) will add to the overall "impression" of your mini - so at a glance from a distance
 people can't make out the details - but their brain will register that there ARE a lot of details
 there and they'll go "ooohhh - aaaahhhh" :-)

 happy painting to all!
 Glory to the Emperor and Sanguinius ~ Brother Edward

 PS. more in depth painting tips can be found in the modeling section of my 40K website :-)
 http://www.dragonrealm.com/exlibrismortis 
 Reply 
 Back To Thread Navigation 
 
 

       RE: Painting Tricks 101 (come add yours!) for Peedo! :-) . (0 Replies). SilentKilla[]. 2/18/2002 22:53
 (2/18/2002 22:53) 
 um... use inks to fill in things like eyes on marines, it flows around the indent perfectly...

 blood red with a wash of red ink is a perfect blood angels color :D

 maybe i can think of more, bbs :)

 >> heya Peedo (and everyone!) :-)
 >> 
 >> I was going to send this to you (Peedo) as an email, but then I realized that it might help
 other people too so I decided to post it here! So hello eveyone!
 >> 
 >> Today's topic is "painting tricks 101" :-) 
 >> 
 >> Painting these tiny minis is challenging! Some of us have hands that shake (that would be
 me - and you too if you ate as much chocolate as I do!) :-) So here are a few tricks that help
 me!
 >> 
 >> If you can paint on a nice solid table - and rest your mini on the table, and hold your brush
 in one hand while supporting that hand with your other hand it is AMAZING how steady you
 can hold your brush! Now that really was my last big secret, but another secret that will help
 you is this.... when you look at something really close up it's alright if it doesn't look perfect
 because your model will NOT be looked at up close all the time - MOST of the time it will be
 viewed from about two to three feet away (arm's length) as you move your minis around on a
 table! So even a mini that has some mistakes on it can be a really fun mini to play with
 because at a DISTANCE it looks good! 
 >> 
 >> Just for fun try this - paint a space marine all black, then get some grey, and gently do a
 light grey drybrush over the entire space marine so that the grey hits the highpoints of the
 model - now (the last step) find yourself a glosscoat (I use an acrylic floor "wax" that gives a
 nice tough shiny coat - but that's just me :-) So anyway - hit the model with this now and look
 at what you've got - sparkley eh? The black in the recesses are suddenly the very darkest
 parts of the model - the grey (which is still only a shade lighter than the black) is now the
 "main" color (the model still conveys "black" though) and the glosscoat that you just added
 (once it dries) will now make the very highest points gleam shiny white and whammo - you
 have just created an illusion - the human eye works in layers to detect depth - you've just
 given your eye the shiny white glossoat shine as the "top" and the dark grey parts as the
 middle and the pure black which is in the cracks help create the illusion of depth! :-) It's a fun
 trick - but it works! Same thin can be done with any colors, darkest color as the base, lighter
 color drybrushed over most of the model - then a very very light highlight on only the very
 highest points with the lightest shade (almost white) of the color you're using and the effect will
 be much the same - but (in my opinion) the effect is still best when used on shiny surfaces (like
 power armor) because the gloss coat allows that very brightest shine to be a true light effect
 (as it should be) which will be accurate to wherever your light source is no matter what angle
 you look at your mini from :-)
 >> 
 >> I think the first time I really figured this out (the whole details don;t have to be perfect
 thing) is when I was painting the lenses on the Space Marine helmets - at first I just put little
 green dashes there and it looked pretty good from a distance! :-) Oh those dashes looked
 plum goofy up close, but they totally worked from a distance so the effect was good! :-) Later
 on I got a bit more obsessed with adding details (hey a fellow has to do something in their
 spare time!) but that's a story for another day :-)
 >> 
 >> So anyway, the moral of the story for tonight is that more little details you add (even if they
 are not perfect!) will add to the overall "impression" of your mini - so at a glance from a
 distance people can't make out the details - but their brain will register that there ARE a lot of
 details there and they'll go "ooohhh - aaaahhhh" :-)
 >> 
 >> happy painting to all!
 >> Glory to the Emperor and Sanguinius ~ Brother Edward
 >> 
 >> PS. more in depth painting tips can be found in the modeling section of my 40K website
 :-)
 >> http://www.dragonrealm.com/exlibrismortis 
 Reply 
 Back To Thread Navigation 
 
 

       RE: Painting Tricks 101 (come add yours!) for Peedo! :-) . (0 Replies). Andamadus[]. 2/18/2002
 22:56 (2/18/2002 22:56) 
 I don't know if i am late in knowing this but flesh wash is awesome for a highlight on top of
 shining gold and if you really pile it on it looks like blood, actualy blood not the blood red
 paint. I used it for my Sanguinius model-link is at bottom of reply. And Ed is right keep your
 model steady.

 And yeah for all the people as idiotic as me, avoid painting spots on your model that contain
 glue that has not dried yet it is a very easy way to ruin a 4 dollar brush.

 http://andamadus.tripod.com/theironwarriorandamadusblackcrusade/id5.html
 

 Also if you are wondering how to do conversions you can ask me as I consider myself a
 slighly better converter than painter and if you see how golden demon winners always seem to
 find the wierdest things to put on their models but I'll tell you everything you need is in your
 bitz box, just use your imagination. 
 Reply 
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       i've got a great one to prevent the loss of detail..... . (4 Replies). baronsmeg[]. 2/18/2002 23:02
 (2/18/2002 23:40) 
 ok so we all know that the more paint you put on a modle the more detail you lose. well i have
 a niffty trick my uncle taught me! ..... paint thinner!

 yep after you get the paint on the brush dip the brush in a bit of paint thinner and then apply to
 the modle, the paint will not be as thick and will seep in to the recesses. and it will still retain its
 color instead of becoming transparent, like it does when you water paint down!

 hope you like it!

 baronsmeg and his mini lop! 
 Reply 
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           and a great one for if you have shaky hands..... . (1 Replies). baronsmeg[]. 2/18/2002 23:06
 (2/18/2002 23:10) 
 ok go fing a marker with a flat bottom! now glue that bottom to the bottom of your minatures
 base! (dont use to much glue because you want to remove it when your finished!) 

 now you can hold the marker in one hand and lock you painting hand on your hand holding
 the marker, to make things more steady. you also nolonger have to tuch the modle!!

 cool hu?

 baronsmeg and his mini lop! 
 Reply 
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               Or stick the marker in a vise.... . (0 Replies). lordisaiah[]. 2/18/2002 23:10 (2/18/2002 23:10) 

 Reply 
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           paint thinner?!?!? do you not use acrylics? :-) . (1 Replies). BloodAngelBrotherEdward[].
 2/18/2002 23:16 (2/18/2002 23:40) 
 Howdy baronsmeg!

 paint thinner??!? oh my! how DO you stand the smell! :-) you can do much the same thing by
 watering down your acrylics (GW's paint is acrylic, acrylic being a water based paint). Just
 thought I'd throw that out there before all the little ones start running out for paint thinner that
 will warp their fragile little minds :-)

 oh - Katherine and I want to say hello to BunBun :-)

 happy painting! ~ Brother Edward 
 Reply 
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               RE: paint thinner?!?!? do you not use acrylics? :-) . (0 Replies). BaronSmeg[]. 2/18/2002 23:40
 (2/18/2002 23:40) 
 >> Howdy baronsmeg!
 >> 
 >> paint thinner??!? oh my! how DO you stand the smell! :-) you can do much the same thing
 by watering down your acrylics (GW's paint is acrylic, acrylic being a water based paint). Just
 thought I'd throw that out there before all the little ones start running out for paint thinner that
 will warp their fragile little minds :-)
 >> 
 >> oh - Katherine and I want to say hello to BunBun :-)
 >> 
 >> happy painting! ~ Brother Edward

 bun bun shot me a few times, and told you all to go away!

 now the thing i prefer over thinner is that the actuall paint color remains the same, where as if
 you water it down it strats to become transparent, which can be very anoying some times,
 resulting in even more layers of paint, usually you can find the thinner in jars as big as a GW
 paint pot, which are just perfect for this sort of work! 

 by the way edward (and katherine!) did you check out www.sluggy.com i think you will find it
 extreamly funny, that and you get to see why bun bun is such a maniac! 

 i only wish i could draw like the guy who does the comic!

 lets keep the help full thread alive!

 baronsmeg and his mini lop! 
 Reply 
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       RE: Painting Tricks 101 (come add yours!) for Peedo! :-) . (0 Replies). lordisaiah[]. 2/18/2002 23:06
 (2/18/2002 23:06) 
 The others have covered most the tricks of the trade. But Brother Edward said something I
 have to emphasize.

 Don't freak out if your models have tiny mistakes. As someone pointed out, my skills at
 painting faces aren't exactly the best, but on the table top, playing a battle, the army looks
 great as a whole. 
 Reply 
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       Excilent... must absorb... . (0 Replies). Peedo[]. 2/18/2002 23:16 (2/18/2002 23:16) 
 It is good that you saw the light (or darkness in my case), and decided to post this message.
 This will be very usefull to me, as long as none of this stuff requires any real effort on my part
 (I hate work, it was foolish of me to chose such an indepth game with my lazyness and lack of
 basic spelling/gramerical skills). Often time's I paint the sholder pads, drybrush allot, ink it
 over and pronounce it done.
 If I make any controbution to this tred I will say my way of lightning made easy (it's allot like
 edwards only it requires less effort).
 Take your brush, dip it in some lightning blue and glop it on a coupl of places but be carefull
 not to do to much. Take your drybrush and soak up as much paint from the glops as you can.
 Then use the paint to drybrush around the glops (you can glop as frequently as you see fit, I'm
 not one for being exact). Take your brush and heavyly ink the area with dark blue ink
 (whichever one isn't sky blue, I think it's just called blue), you may need to do this twice. After
 it dry's (you can blow on it to have in dry in about 30 seconds), just start lightly dabbing your
 brush in skull white and start attacking your unit with it. In the end you'll have allot of good
 looking lightning bolts on your mini.

 My show's on now, so I leave (TV is my patron god outside of Nurgle).

 -Peedo 
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       Never underestimate some simple gore . (3 Replies). CityRat[]. 2/18/2002 23:24 (2/19/2002 17:25) 
 One of the things that has gotten my army some attention and more than a couple wows has
 been my use of corpses on my more important models. (tanks, leaders, etc.) It does take
 some extra money usually, but the reactions are worth it if done right.

 3 or 4 things are needed for this, depending on the wanted effect. 
 #1) The proper model for a corpse. (Leaders of opposing armies work well. ie, if you're a
 chaos player, tear up a space marine, SoB, or IG leader. Yes, destroy the weak Imperial
 fools.... (insert 5 minutes of demonic laughter here)
 #2) A hacksaw for removing limbs from metal models or just a knife for plastic ones.
 #3) a power drill for putting holes through corpses, for things such as bullet holes, or just really
 horrible stab wounds.
 #4) The proper paints for blood effects. (Blood red, red ink, flesh wash, etc.)

 Now comes the real fun. Especially for Chaos/DE/anything evil, creativity can go a LONG
 way. Just conjure up some horrible image of something happening to someone in 40k, and do
 your best to recreate it. Here's a few examples from my army. 

 Ahriman of the Thousand Sons: I pushed the model towards the front of the base, leaving
 room in the back of it. I then took the model for Carbulo, the Blood Angels priest, and went
 to work. I bent the legs back so that he was on his knees. Removed his head with a hacksaw
 and left it completely off the model, leaving the mystery of what happened up to the viewer. I
 then broke off his sword, drilled a proper hole through his chest, and put the sword through
 his back so the tip is coming out the front of him. Then took some threads, dipped them in red
 ink, and draped them out of the hole as entrails. Overall, it looks like Ahriman just shredded
 him in close combat and has already started looking for a new opponent before the corpse
 has even began to fall. 

 Warmaster Abaddon the Despoiler: For this one, I used the Comissar Yarrick model. I
 pushed Abaddon back on the base, and laid Yarrick's corpse across the front. Using the
 hacksaw, I put a nice large slash across his chest, and removed the head. I then inverted his
 Talon of Horus, and placed Yarrick's head in the claw. My intention for this was as a
 reference to Hamlet (Alas, poor Yarrick...), but it also came out as a nice centerpiece for an
 army. Simple but effective. 

 Iron Warriors Basilisk: This was nice because the corpses came with the model itself. I simply
 tore apart the basilisk crew and draped their body parts around it. The heads specifically went
 on the front, like makeshift hood ornaments. (IG players hate me now :) 

 And this is only the beginning of what's possible. With some simple ideas and extra
 time/models, it's amazing just how much extra character an army can have. 
 Reply 
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           sound disgusting! ............COOL! . (1 Replies). baronsmeg[]. 2/18/2002 23:47 (2/18/2002 23:54) 
 yeh i am realy going to go to work on my emporers children army, i have already ordered a
 couple bits, my lord is going to be dragging a couple slaves with him so i figured what better
 than the slaves that the asrabul vect modle has with it!!!

 im am going to have them with chaines around their neck and may be a dead one that he has
 not yet released!!!

 i always love it when there is that little extra added to the modle!!!

 baronsmeg and his mini lop! 
 Reply 
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               RE: sound disgusting! ............COOL! . (0 Replies). CityRat[]. 2/18/2002 23:54 (2/18/2002 23:54) 
 >> yeh i am realy going to go to work on my emporers children army, i have already ordered
 a couple bits, my lord is going to be dragging a couple slaves with him so i figured what better
 than the slaves that the asrabul vect modle has with it!!!
 >> 
 >> im am going to have them with chaines around their neck and may be a dead one that he
 has not yet released!!!

 That definitely sounds cool man. Unfortunately that doesn't make as much sense for Iron
 Warriors, or I might have to rip that idea off. ;) 
 Reply 
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           You should know better then to mess with the Blood Angels! . (0 Replies).
 BloodAngelsPlaya[]. 2/19/2002 17:25 (2/19/2002 17:25) 
 Im hunting your Chaos Army as you read this. But that was a pretty cool idea. But i also have
 a technique. Only put the bottom peice of the SM chest part and biuld the rest of him in a
 mutilated way. If you have extra bitz from gorish things that resembmle organs put those inside
 to make it look like his chest was ripped open. 
 Reply 
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       Eyeballs and lightbulbs . (0 Replies). egbertdfat[]. 2/18/2002 23:35 (2/18/2002 23:35) 
 First off, eye painting. This metod offers the best results, from 28 mm to 120mm figures. Paint
 the eyeball itself white, or a slightly off-white (like eggshell white). Next, I put a small drop of
 blue, brown, or whatever for the iris. I usually don't paint the pupil on small models like
 28mm. Only after the eye is painted do I paint the eyelids and face. This means less accuracy
 with the brush (a bonus for shaky hands), and provides a little more 'depth'.
 I also have this little tip. Paint in a VERY well lit area. I have three flourescent lights. One on
 either side of me, one above my work area. You'll notice flaws in paint much easier. If the
 area you fight your armies at is like mine, the light is much dimmer, and the models do look
 much better.
 I'll post more, if I can think of any.

 Egbertdfat 
 Reply 
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       Question for ya Edward . (2 Replies). captdaveman[]. 2/19/2002 0:25 (2/19/2002 1:22) 
 Yo Ed is that floor wax you use in an arosole, or is it a straight liquid? I have use for both a
 name brand would also be helpful. 
 Reply 
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           liquid glosscoat specifics :-) . (1 Replies). BloodAngelBrotherEdward[]. 2/19/2002 1:10
 (2/19/2002 1:22) 
 "Future" is the name/brand 
 the rest of the label reads: "Premium Floor Finish - Long Lasting Shine / Tough Acrylic
 Protection" 

 it is a clear liquid, sold in a squeeze bottle with a white top. I got mine at the local WalMart 

 just use it like a brush on glosscoat, is best on small areas - leaves brushstrokes on bigger
 areas.

 hope this helps! ~ Brother Edward 
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               RE: liquid glosscoat specifics :-) (NT) . (0 Replies). captdaveman[thanks dude(NT)].
 2/19/2002 1:22 (2/19/2002 1:22) 
 No Text 
 Reply 
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       here is one for you . (0 Replies). UncleCrazy[]. 2/19/2002 0:46 (2/19/2002 0:46) 
 Glaze! works great for dark colors, primer black, dry blush grey, glaze with the color you
 want. work great of dark angels. then just go back for the details. it works the same as the
 gloss V. 

 oh here is another

 dont gloss V the all of the mini just the metal parts. it looks nice 
 Reply 
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       A Question, really. . (1 Replies). knightwatch[knightwatch@angelfire.com]. 2/19/2002 1:57 (2/19/2002
 2:03) 
 

 I was glancing through Index Astartes at the GW shop when I saw a cool looking picture of
 space marine with a tye-dye color scheme. (I think it was chaos, I'll know for sure when I buy
 the index on friday.) I thought the paint scheme looked pretty cool, so I think I might start an
 army. (Who cares about the stats or the fluff, style is all that Really matters.)

 I'm kinda nervous about painting a marine with so many colors that don't go along the usual
 lines, does anyone have some good ideas on how to get this tye-dye effect?

 Reply 
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           here ya go :-) . (0 Replies). BloodAngelBrotherEdward[]. 2/19/2002 2:03 (2/19/2002 2:03) 
 paint the marine white - then apply inks with a small paintbrush as if they were paint (aka not
 in the usual "ink" fashion) - this produces VERY bright colors. Learned this from a local Nid
 player who has a VERY bright army, and incidentally an Emperor's Children army :-)

 hope this helps ~ Brother Edward 
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       RE: Painting Tricks 101 (come add yours!) for Peedo! :-) . (0 Replies). captdaveman[]. 2/19/2002
 2:06 (2/19/2002 2:06) 
 A simple painting tip learned a while back is to use a very light grey for eyes rather than white.
 White gives the mini a confused google eyed apearence that I did not care for. 
 Reply 
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       Boltgun Metal? . (0 Replies). KainEmrys[]. 2/19/2002 3:56 (2/19/2002 3:56) 
 Here's a fun bit to try...Hate drybrushing on all that metal where it can mess up the bits around
 it? Try basing the soon to be metal bits in Chainmail. Once that dries, hit with a good does of
 blackwash (do not water it down); the effect is great on setions with any detail [;>...

 Another trick is for highlighting of black armor...As Edward suggested, let the light work for
 you...in this case paint on the black as a base then simply apply a good blackwash after it
 dries (again, do not water it down.) When the wash dries it will be shiny and the light reflected
 on the surface will naturally highlight the model (adding a gloss finish will only increase this
 effect so go right ahead [;> ) 
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       Vehicles in five minutes . (0 Replies). kurisawa[]. 2/19/2002 4:38 (2/19/2002 4:38) 
 Yes I also use gloss a lot over base colours and it finds the highlights itself. Gives a nice shiny
 spaceman feel to your figs too.

 Anyway - onto the topic of my reply: vehicles.

 I discovered this by accident, but if you spray em black outside while it is raining it dries
 strangely smudged for a great final battle-worn effect.

 A bit of boltgun metal drybrushing over weapons / other bits you want to look metal (also I
 find a small drybrush with shining gold on the end of the barrels of guns - particularly heavy
 flamers - is great for creating burn marks on the metal) and whammo, a vehicle ready to have
 your insignia applied and then rumble into battle.

 Here's another tip: You know all those cross-shaped dividers that you get holding your bases
 together, and you never throw em away 'cos you just know they will come in useful for
 something?

 Well, once you've painted numbers 1-6 on the back of six of them for use as counters in the
 rescue scenario, here's what to do with the rest:

 I chop 'em up into small bits and use as extra chunks when adding flock to bases. Gives a bit
 more dimension to the terrain under the feet of the figs.

 K. 
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       EASY ORKS! . (0 Replies). Magorian[]. 2/19/2002 6:16 (2/19/2002 6:16) 
 This is a very easy way of painting loads of orks, and getting them right.

 First coat, paint the green skin. Doesn't matter at all if you slop the paint all over, as long as
 you cover all the skin.

 Then, paint the trousers one colour, and the shirt another. Entirely personal preference, I like
 greens, browns, reds and blacks. No shading or highlighting yet, just one colour.

 Boots black/dark brown, belts brown/black/grey, and weapons and armour boltgun metal.
 Still no shading, so the model will look a bit silly by now.

 NOW, mix 1 part chaos black with about 1-2 parts water. Experiment wih this, until you
 know pretty much the constituency.
 Cover the ENTIRE model with this wash. This will shade the clothes, darken the weapons,
 bring out the muscles wonderfully, in fact this wash does pratically all the work for you.
 The secret ingredient. 

 Oh, and do the teeth white/bone and eyes red. 

 Done.

 The great thing is you can do a good 10 models at a time, and shouldn't take you more than a
 day if you time your innings right.

 If anybody gets great results from this like I did, drop a mail it'd be great to hear, or add to
 MSN.

 adammiom@hotmail.com 
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       A question for yall... . (2 Replies). novakane[]. 2/19/2002 6:18 (2/20/2002 10:06) 
 I play with a very shiny (just stepped off the parade ground) UM army and wanted to add a
 squad of marines to it for friendly games, just to give a little variance to my army.I was thinking
 about doing a bright white star wars stormtrooper type look, but ,and here is my question, i
 have had VERY bad luck painting bright white in the past.On my terminators, i have noticed
 that white paint dries very fast for some reason, and tends to "cake".I usually have to paint
 about 3 full coats when doing white.What if anything could i do to get around this problem?
 BTW enjoying the post guys, lets keep it going! 
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           Me Too . (1 Replies). jdelrio[jmdelrio1]. 2/19/2002 16:28 (2/20/2002 10:06) 
 This happens to me also, and I wouldn't what this question to go unanswered by the experts!!!
 BUMP. 
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               white! . (0 Replies). liquidviolence[]. 2/20/2002 10:06 (2/20/2002 10:06) 
 Im no expert but ill give it a go.

 Ive just painted 12 fire warriors with white helmets so i know what you mean, and the only
 answer i found was to water the white down (about 50/50 !!!) and do loads of coats.

 Sorry, i know its a pain in the arse but it gets your minis white in the end.

 Liquid.

 "all warfare is based on deception" Sun Tzu

 oh, and try painting it light grey first, like fortress gray or codex. 
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       Rust . (0 Replies). Verms[]. 2/19/2002 6:21 (2/19/2002 6:21) 
 Chestnut ink doesn't really float my boat. Try drybrushing on tiny amounts of tin bitz, dwarf
 bronze, etc. 
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       Thanks.. Here's another. . (3 Replies). knightwatch[knightwatch@angelfire.com]. 2/19/2002 14:10
 (2/20/2002 9:40) 
 

 I for one am REALLY bad at painting details on my minis. It's partially because of that shakey
 hands thing, so I'll have to try some suggestions on that. However, I don't feel that's where the
 majority of my problems lie.

 When the insignias are alreay on the models, I've tried watering the pain down to get into the
 recesses, but it always seems to spill down to other parts of the model as well. I suppose I
 could simply whipe off the running paint and paint over it, but I was wondering if there are any
 other suggestions.

 As for details that AREN'T already on the models, I'm somewhat concerened that, even if the
 lines themselves are straight, I'll end up making the insignias lop-sided or something like that.
 I've been thinking about trying to make a stencil or two to help me with this. I know they
 provide Decals for insignias, but they hardly ever seem to have enough of the insignas I want.

 Does anyone have any tricks they use when painting insignias on models? 
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           RE: Thanks.. Here's another. . (2 Replies). codemonkey[]. 2/19/2002 15:15 (2/20/2002 9:40) 
 >> When the insignias are alreay on the models, I've tried watering the pain down to get into
 the recesses, but it always seems to spill down to other parts of the model as well. I suppose I
 could simply whipe off the running paint and paint over it, but I was wondering if there are any
 other suggestions.

 Just go easy on the watering down. I use a lot of inks (particularly for Tyranids - chestnut ink
 over the armor and apple green over the body) which behave in a similar manner if I load my
 brush with too much ink. You really don't need that much to fill recesses especially if it's
 watered down or ink. Also you can do a couple of 'rounds' of inking/washing.

 >> As for details that AREN'T already on the models, I'm somewhat concerened that, even if
 the lines themselves are straight, I'll end up making the insignias lop-sided or something like
 that. I've been thinking about trying to make a stencil or two to help me with this. I know they
 provide Decals for insignias, but they hardly ever seem to have enough of the insignas I want.
 >> 
 >> Does anyone have any tricks they use when painting insignias on models?

 For painting insignia or mottos on vehicles and figures I generally paint a few 'guide lines'
 around the insignia area to keep things straight. The 'guides' usually consist of little horizontal
 dashes around the outside of the area I want the insignia on. Get the horizontal dash guides in
 the right place/at the right level and then paint the insignia according to the guides and it should
 all be straight. Then paint over the guides (or include them in the insignia somehow). 
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               This is a good one for yellow . (1 Replies). Uzantaltufty[]. 2/19/2002 17:25 (2/20/2002 9:40) 
 I paint Imperial fists at the moment so i have been trying out new things on them. I personally
 don't like the "perfect" look of the eavy metal painters (damn them! =P) as it kinda makes em
 look....well, like happy marines. So instead i Drybrushed with white. Not heavily but jsut
 enoug to notice and then sprayed with a protection matt, like the varnish that GW sell. They
 look awesome now and they are nice and safe in a hardened shell :) 
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                   oh those sound nice - any pics online? :-) (NT) . (0 Replies).
 BloodAngelBrotherEdward[]. 2/20/2002 9:40 (2/20/2002 9:40) 
 No Text 
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       K.I.S.S. . (1 Replies). GraemePaul[]. 2/20/2002 15:16 (2/21/2002 10:14) 
 I use K.I.S.S as my main painting method. 

 'Keep It Simple Stupid' 

 Try and use as few colours as posible on the model, that way your units will look far more
 affective from a distance. 2/3 colours tops, one as the main colour and the others as a
 contrasting/compimenting colour. 

 Lonewolf 
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           RE: K.I.S.S. . (0 Replies). Jupe[]. 2/21/2002 10:14 (2/21/2002 10:14) 
 Remember the two foot standard. Very few models are seen at closer than 2 feet away. Don't
 spend 20 minutes on a detail that will never be seen.

 Jupe 
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       RE: Painting Tricks 101 (come add yours!) for Peedo! :-) . (0 Replies). bravetonster[]. 2/21/2002
 22:51 (2/21/2002 22:51) 
 I use a few techniques that seem to work for me.

 1. I paint most of the model BEFORE assembling it. I find I get most of the details easier that
 way.

 2. Whenever I can I use spray paints. A sandy brown or black spray from a distance can
 'weather' a vehicle.

 3. For teeth and fangs, especially Orks, I'll go over with varying shades of white. Orks don't
 brush so the tartar bulid-up is gross.

 4. I coat the model with a heavy coat of gloss varnish, then spry it with a flat varnish. This
 double tap protects the paint from chipping a little better. 

 5. After making the model 'flat' I'll repaint the 'wet' part(s) of the model with the gloss. This
 makes the mouth appear to be watering and the eyes glasses over (for corpses). 
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>> While I paint, the hairs of the brush are spreding and it makes the painting frustrating because this way you paint things you don't want to paint and it's making your painting dirty and unclean..
>> Why is this happening and what can I do in order to fix this problem? Did I buy a damaged brush?
 

+++++ Well first of all they use a little dab of glue on the tips of the brush from the factory to give them the illusion of a nice crisp sharp point (isn't that sneaky?) so you can be confident the actual point won't be quite that sharp once you really start using the thing... that's not your fault though.

    the next thing is something I think most all of us do - and that is when we rinse our brushes I know that I am guilty of sticking my brush in a glass and swishing it around (also sometimes mashing the brush against the bottom of the glass in the process) and THAT is what will make your brush flair out faster than anything else - rough treatment when you wash your brushes.... Some of your better paintbrush washing cups will have little angles slopes that you are supposed to submerge your brush under the water, and twirl just the side of yoru brush against the flat surface - in this way you get a clean brush without mangling your brush :-)

  another trick I've taken to doing to also help save my brushes is that when I am done with them I lick my fingers and twirl the tip of the brushback into a nice sharp point - kinda gross but hey, it helps keep the brushes sharp  :-)

that's it for me :-)

 Glory to the Emperor and sharp paintbrushes :-)
~ Brother Edward
http://www.dragonrealm.com/exlibrismortis 
 

PS. one other thing you can do is to use a tiny pair of scissors and cut away the worst of those wild bristles - that alone can give a whole new life to a brush that you're really not using anymore :-)